In my quilts, anything goes. I love quilting cottons, silk, linen, denim, and wool. All together or separately, depending on the project.
I’ve worked with felted wool in many ways. Wool as the background with cotton appliquéd on top. Wool as the fabric to be appliquéd on a cotton, or linen, or wool background. Because the wool doesn’t ravel, you don’t have to turn under the edges, and appliqué is fast. Because the wool is plush, stitches can hide easily, so if your stitches aren’t perfect, and you use a matching thread, no one notices. If you want your stitches to show, a contrasting or heavier thread or a blanket stitch will do the trick to add another element to your project.
Wool stitched on wool is like sewing through butter. Both layers are soft and easy to needle. Stitching goes quickly. The result is bulky, though. That’s something to consider if you are making a large quilt.
Wool stitched on cotton is fun. You get a firm background which layers easily with batting and backing to get a traditional kind of quilt with dimensional wool applique.
Linen, or a 50/50 blend of linen and cotton, is widely available now in quilt shops. It has a rougher texture that supports the weight of the wool beautifully. And, I was surprised to see that quilting stitches show up nicely on the linen.
My preference for wool appliqué is to use felted wool, not wool felt. There is a difference. Felted wool is woven wool which has been washed and shrunk to tighten the weave. The holes between the threads are still there. Wool felt has a flatter appearance and is harder to needle. Wool felt is made from fibers tightly pressed together and has no holes. It’s a personal preference. Some people like the wool felt. I’m all about the process, and I like the feel of felted wool.
Note: wool felt is not woven, it’s smushed. It may have glue in it. It lies flatter and ravels less, they say. But it has a hard hand and a flat appearance to me. My blog, my opinion. Only my opinion. Play with it and draw your own conclusions.
You can buy some absolutely delicious hand dyed felted wool now. It’s sold in quilt shops, at shows, and online. But, there is adventure in felting your own wool from recycled garments. I recently bought a beautiful red cashmere coat for $10. The store owner was surprised I didn’t need to try it on for size. I brought it home, disassembled it, then washed it in hot water and threw it in the dryer. It is the most luscious wool in my stash. The linings, interlinings, and interfacings are interesting, too.
To felt your own wool, look for a tag that says 100% wool (blends can work, but the higher the wool content, the nicer the finished product). I don’t bring it in the house until I’ve prepared it for washing. I didn’t intentionally buy someone else’s bug problem. I remove buttons, zippers, linings and interfacings. I also cut away shoulder and sleeve seams before washing. It’s hard to cut through all the layers after it’s felted. I might leave some seams in a skirt or the back of a jacket, though, to have a bigger piece of wool.
Put it in the washing machine with detergent and your hottest water for the longest cyle. Then put it in the dryer, again on hot. Do check the lint trap frequently as you may have a lot of fibers in there.
Interesting things can happen if you wash red wool with white. I sometimes am careful about color separation, but usually not. I like surprises.
Details of photo: Beauty and the Bees, 31″ x 24″, based on pattern by Maggie Bonanomi. Felted wool from recycled clothing along with a few purchased hand-dyed wool pieces. Tendrils and berries are free-motion couched by machine. Quilting is all free-motion machine stitching.